The Picasso Museum in Barcelona has got to be one of the most heavily trafficked attractions in Catalonia. The museum itself is located in the Old Town area, spanning a series of adjoining rooms. These rooms run across several houses described as “medieval palaces.” They didn’t strike me as palaces, but I supposed by European standards at the time these were quite large. I’d say they were mansions. But it’s what these mansions contain that makes the place a constant thrum.
When you visit this museum, don’t expect to see many works from Picasso’s blue or rose periods. But I promise, you will not be disappointed. There are only a few of those on display. You also won’t see what many consider his greatest single work, Guernica.
Instead, this museum spans his lifetime of work, showing the progression of his artistry. Think of it as a tasting menu that begins in a master chef’s teens, and ends with their signature dish. Pieces were donated by Picasso’s friend, Jaime Sabartes. After Sabartes passed away, Picasso himself donated more paintings including an abundance of his early works. His family has since donated other works.
This is where even the most non-art-inclined person (that would be me) can appreciate his talent. As you walk through the rooms from front to back, you’ll see sketches and paintings beginning in his teenage years and progressing to another of his greatest works. But seeing his early work is impactful because by the age of 15 his talent is clear.
Outside of this collection of paintings, and in many ways most impressive, the museum also includes all 44 pieces of Las Meninas, inspired by the Velázquez masterpiece of the same name. What I loved about these paintings (and they are the most famous on display at the museum) is that it shows all the work, and planning, and consideration that is involved in a painting. What goes where, how each piece is portrayed in position, mood and color is all broken out…it’s like seeing each rewrite of Hamlet’s soliloquy.
As I said, this is the most popular room, and it’s what is basically the end of the exhibit. By then, I was pretty overwhelmed, and the room was crowded. In fact, the rooms that house the study of Las Meninas, and the piece itself, are elbow to elbow with people. For background on Velázquez and his connection to these Picasso works, refer to my previous post on The Prado.Travel Tip: If you are planning to visit the Picasso Museum, a few suggestions. Buy tickets ahead of time—as I have mentioned before, many of these museums have tickets online. The line for people without ticket is incredibly long and you will spend a nice chunk of your morning or afternoon snaking your way to the ticket counter. You can roll the dice and try going at noon for a slightly shorter line, but I don’t recommend it. I do encourage a visit during traditional siesta hours, as it is comparatively less crowded. Photographs are not permitted in the museum, however it is not strictly enforced. What will get you in trouble quicker than a New York minute is using flash. It’s frowned upon by tourist and guide alike, but using a smart phone to click a photo is possible. I suggest respecting the guidelines (which I did) and purchasing postcards in the gift shop. I would also strongly recommend purchasing the audio tour. It’s informative and a great way to occupy time hearing about the works while waiting your turn to get in front of the paintings. In fact, across Spain, when you’re at these museums the audio tour makes your visit a lot more enjoyable. It’s worth it, and we were never disappointed by a single audio tour.
Because Picasso left Barcelona for Paris in his early twenties, we non-art enthusiasts may forget his Spanish heritage and think a museum like this is out of place Barcelona. He did in fact return to the city several times. However, after the Civil War his opposition to Franco kept him in France, where he continued to paint and design for the Barcelona College of Architects. Franco was later persuaded to allow the city to open this museum.