Inside Sagrada Familia

I have a confession. Before going to Spain, I wasn’t even sure how to pronounce Gaudí. A friend who had just returned from Barcelona riffed off an email with places to eat, a fabulous shop for local shoes and then said, ‘you’ll probably only have time for one Gaudí so make it Sagrada Família.’ Hmm, certainly sounded scrumptious. Yes, I would seek out this restaurant, run by the Sagradas, and be sure to order a Gaudí.

Turns out, Gaudí is not a food. It’s a person and he was one of Spain’s most famous figures of the 1800s. An artist, and Catalan architect (and interior designer), Gaudí is the “figurehead of Catalan Modernism.” He has a very distinct, organic style, by which I mean his work was heavily rooted in nature. As far as architects go, his work is a feast for the eyes.

His creations are widely thought to play off of his passions: architecture, nature and religion. It’s like, turn a corner on a regular street and suddenly…is that building melting? And, Gaudí’s architecture isn’t just steel or stone, because he combines ceramics, stained glass, wrought ironwork forging and carpentry, and meshes these into shapes inspired by the natural world. The effect is simultaneously jarring and soothing.

Sagrada Familia. Stunning.
Sagrada Familia. Stunning.

Much of Gaudi’s architecture is concentrated in Barcelona, which brings a certain element of otherworldly magic to the city that is hard to describe but wonderful to experience. From what I understand, people either love Gaudí, or don’t.

If that is true, then Sagrada Família is the best demonstration of his vision, talent and where you would fall in love with him. If there’s one signature work to visit of his while you’re in Barcelona this is it. Be warned, it’s still being built.

Borrowed from various sources, Sagrada Família is considered an architectural evolution. While I know about as much about architecture as I do art, I wholeheartedly agree. Think nature meets neo-gothic…like a church growing out of the ground.

Gaudí began working on the Cathedral in 1915, and spent the rest of his life (he died June 7, 1926) devoted to it. The Sagrada Família has a cruciform plan, with a five-aisled nave, a transept of three aisles, and an apse with seven chapels. It has three facades dedicated to the birth, passion and glory of Jesus, and when completed (note: that’s a key point) it will have eighteen towers: four at each side making a total of twelve for the apostles, four on the transept invoking the evangelists and one on the apse dedicated to the Virgin, plus the central tower in honor of Jesus, which will reach 170 meters (560 ft) in height.

Stamps on my Passport
A great demonstration of Gaudi’s style.

Travel Tips: While the Cathedral is jammed packed, this is truly the “don’t miss/must see” attraction in Barcelona. And I say that for the spiritual and non-spiritual alike. A few mandatories:

  • Purchase a ticket ahead of time online. The lines are HUGE, wrapping around the cathedral, for those who did not get tickets in advance.
  • Make sure your ticket includes the Basilica and and Tower. There are a two towers, each has perceived pros and cons. I won’t bias you.
  • Be on time; the admissions folks are ultra strict about prompt entrance and you don’t want to miss your window of opportunity, especially if you are visiting one of the Towers. BTW, this also means don’t show up too early. We arrived 15 minutes ahead of time and were told to exit the line and enter then.
  • Plan to spend a few hours, either exploring, taking photographs, participating in a tour or simply just sitting quietly.

When Barcelona’s residents complained that construction was taking too long, Gaudí is said to have quipped: “My client is not in a hurry.” He had a reputation for not suffering fools. When he died in 1926, the basilica was only about 20 percent complete. After Gaudí’s death, work continued until interrupted by the Spanish Civil War in 1936. Parts of the unfinished basilica and Gaudí’s models and workshop were destroyed and the present design a reconstructed version of his vision.

Construction is now funded by visitors and the final Cathedral is projected to be complete around 2026, the centennial of Gaudí’s death. However, we noticed that other information states 2028. For anyone who has personally experienced the charms of Spain, the humor is not lost. But, I’m guessing that if it’s not complete, they’ll make it look finished in 2026.

Inside the Sagrada Family. A feast for your eyes.
Inside the Sagrada Family. A feast for your eyes.

While writing this, I saw Paul Steel’s post and thought he had some really beautiful photos. Interestingly, i struggled with the same question (to comment or not on the ongoing construction of Sagrada Família and Spain’s overall work ethic.) Ultimately, I think we both agreed, like any country, the stereotype is personified. The people we met in Spain were friendly, hard working. I wouldn’t want to come off as disrespectful. And I am careful not to diminish new friendships by holding on to an old stereotype. I mean, I would hate for people to judge me based on what they read about Washington DC.

 

 

Author: Judi Kennedy

Wanderlust. A professional aunt, fitness enthusiast, dog owner and avid reader the rest of the time.

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