Palau de la Música

If you enjoy wandering around foreign cities without an agenda like we do on holiday, there’s a chance you might overlook Palau de la Música in the Old Town neighborhood of Barcelona. That would be a big mistake.

The red-brick exterior features colorful tile work that can easily be mistaken for Gaudí. But the Music Hall is the work of Lluís Domènech i Montaner.  And the music hall is an acknowledged “architectural jewel of Catalan Art Nouveau.” The title is well earned rather than the usual promotional puffery encountered.

While beautiful, this tile work is something you'll blow by in Barcelona if you don't pay attention.
A street level view of the title work outside Palau de la  Musica. Be sure to look up, some of the most intricate tile work is above street level.

The guided tour is a must so that you understand the full concept—from the exterior tile work to the mosaics and busts of famous composers. But, the real gem—the grand finale (and it is a BIG payoff) is the auditorium. Specifically, it’s the ceiling. A massive inverted dome of stained glass, depicting angelic choristers. Below the stained glass lies the audience and stage, with sculptures of Wagner and Clave framing a massive organ.

A longview of the Palau's auditorium, showing the stained glass dome and stage.
A longview of the Palau’s auditorium, showing the stained glass dome and stage.

The thing is, although it’s visually stunning, everything that was done, every element of the overall design had an eye for the ear. And anyone lucky enough to get a chance to attend a concert (tons of artists play this intimate hall) will attest that there’s not a bad seat in the house. Besides, with views like this, who needs to see the stage?

The charm of the auditorium goes beyond the stained glass dome. The concern hall is the only European hall lit entirely by natural light. That may not jump off the screen as you read this but when you visit, the hall is mesmerizing. You can tell there was considerable thought put into designing the building in a way that would maximize light.

These extra large windows help bring more natural light into the concert hall.
These extra large windows help bring more natural light into the concert hall.

Tours are about an hour and a total delight. When you arrive in the concert hall, you do hear an organ recording to demonstrate the acoustics. While this is a bit cheeky compared to a true performance, don’t knock it. Gimmicky, yes? But travelers with open minds will walk away with a deep appreciation for the acoustics and awesome genius behind the design.

More than anything, I would recommend trying to see a performance at the Palau de la Música. It will give you the opportunity to see the concert hall in all its glory. You can check out the performance schedule on their website. Tickets for general tours can be purchased online.

While Palau de la Música has a café and restaurant, I wouldn’t recommend this as a stop for food or drink. It’s overpriced and the service was uninspired. Instead, just a few short blocks away you can visit a little hole in the wall named La Casa del Vermut.

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One Gaudí Just Isn’t Enough

After discovering Gaudí, it was clear to me I could not leave Barcelona without seeing another one of his masterpieces. I think that’s the way it is with Gaudí…either you love his stuff, or not. But like Frank Lloyd Wright, and perhaps twice so, Gaudí’s architecture transcends into art.

To quote a friend “that could sound kinda snooty,” until you experience his buildings. For me, it was like walking through a piece of art. His work has a surreal effect he achieves by mixing things that should be completely foreign in a way that is deeply familiar. It’s like a childhood memory that could just have well been a dream.

There are several Gaudí buildings from which to choose, but I was drawn to Casa Milà. Pictures of the building were intriguing and based on our hotel, it was easy to get to.

This building, also known as La Pedrera, was erected between 1906 and 1912, for married couple Roser Segimon and Pere Milà. The stone facade and iron decoration of balconies and windows were considered very controversial for the time.

To some degree I can understand why. It’s like a really great inside joke. For anyone who lives there, they understand it—get its brilliance immediately. For the casual passer by though, it’s odd, quirky, and not what a building is “supposed” to look like. Or, maybe it’s like a magician turned a rolling mountain’s hillside into a building.

Interesting fact: Gaudí actually began sketching the building in his workshop in Sagrada Familia, where he had the idea of the house as a constant curve, inside and out.

The resulting effort is actually two buildings, structured around two courtyards that provide light to the nine levels: basement, ground floor, mezzanine, main (or noble) floor, four upper floors, and an attic—which was originally intended to house the building’s laundry. As with all his far-out designs, Casa Milà is equal parts form and function.

Standing in the courtyard at Casa Mila, looking up.
Standing in the courtyard of Casa Mila, looking up.

One of the most significant and striking parts of the building is the roof. It is the crown, bejeweled with skylights, staircase exits, fans, and chimneys woven into a dramatic urban landscape. Cleverly (brilliantly), these were built with timbrel (a tambourine like hand drum) coated with limestone, broken marble and glass. Again, all these forms/designs have a specific architectural function, but they are also fascinating sculptures integrated into the building as flora into a landscape.

Sculptures that line the roof of Casa Mila.
Sculptures that line the roof of Casa Mila.

Now, for anyone who decides to visit, and has a similar reaction to mine, block out several hours. Plan to spend an hour on the roof, taking everything in and admiring Gaudí’s talent. But, don’t miss the Mila’s apartment.

Located on the top floor, this is where you can appreciate the architect’s real genius at interior design. The thought put into each person’s room, its location and proximity to other parts of the house, and how they all seamless flow together is jaw-dropping genius.

The every day dinning area, Gaudi designed for Casa Mila.
The every day dinning area, Gaudi designed for Casa Mila. Notice the how the room flows and consists mostly of open space to maximize acoustics and natural light.

For example, the entire apartment is designed in one circle. But the children’s rooms are far away from the dinning and sitting room, so guests wouldn’t disturb sleeping little ones.

Part of Gaudí’s concept for Casa Mila included specially designed furniture for the main floor. An integral part of the modernism movement was the belief that an architect “assumes responsibility for global issues such as the structure and the facade, as every detail of the decor, design furniture and accessories such as lamps, planters, floors or ceilings.”

However, this proved to be a pain point with Mrs. Milà. She complained that there was no straight wall to place a Steinway piano, which her husband apparently played often and quite well. Gaudi’s response was blunt: “so play the violin.” He was infamous for not suffering fools, or putting up with people. Unfortunately, these disagreements resulted in Mrs. Milà ultimately disposing of, or covering much of the original furniture.

When I return to Spain, I look forward to touring some of his other works.

Travel Tip: Like everything else in Barcelona, buy a ticket in advance to avoid lines. I recommend going later in the day. Casa Mila is off the beaten path but you will be treated to a stellar skyline before the sun sets. Photography, sans flash, is permitted. 
It took me 30 minutes to get this photo but I love it. Through one of Casa Mila's rooftop statues, you can see Sagrada Familia.
It took me 30 minutes to get this photo but I love it. Through one of Casa Mila’s rooftop statues, you can see Sagrada Familia.

Sagrada Familia Gallery

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Although still under construction, Sagrada Familia is a UNESCO world heritage site and rightly so. Here is a small sampling of images from this fabulous Cathedral in Barcelona. If you have been, please leave a comment with a link to your own photos and stories.

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Inside Sagrada Familia

I have a confession. Before going to Spain, I wasn’t even sure how to pronounce Gaudí. A friend who had just returned from Barcelona riffed off an email with places to eat, a fabulous shop for local shoes and then said, ‘you’ll probably only have time for one Gaudí so make it Sagrada Família.’ Hmm, certainly sounded scrumptious. Yes, I would seek out this restaurant, run by the Sagradas, and be sure to order a Gaudí.

Turns out, Gaudí is not a food. It’s a person and he was one of Spain’s most famous figures of the 1800s. An artist, and Catalan architect (and interior designer), Gaudí is the “figurehead of Catalan Modernism.” He has a very distinct, organic style, by which I mean his work was heavily rooted in nature. As far as architects go, his work is a feast for the eyes.

His creations are widely thought to play off of his passions: architecture, nature and religion. It’s like, turn a corner on a regular street and suddenly…is that building melting? And, Gaudí’s architecture isn’t just steel or stone, because he combines ceramics, stained glass, wrought ironwork forging and carpentry, and meshes these into shapes inspired by the natural world. The effect is simultaneously jarring and soothing.

Sagrada Familia. Stunning.
Sagrada Familia. Stunning.

Much of Gaudi’s architecture is concentrated in Barcelona, which brings a certain element of otherworldly magic to the city that is hard to describe but wonderful to experience. From what I understand, people either love Gaudí, or don’t.

If that is true, then Sagrada Família is the best demonstration of his vision, talent and where you would fall in love with him. If there’s one signature work to visit of his while you’re in Barcelona this is it. Be warned, it’s still being built.

Borrowed from various sources, Sagrada Família is considered an architectural evolution. While I know about as much about architecture as I do art, I wholeheartedly agree. Think nature meets neo-gothic…like a church growing out of the ground.

Gaudí began working on the Cathedral in 1915, and spent the rest of his life (he died June 7, 1926) devoted to it. The Sagrada Família has a cruciform plan, with a five-aisled nave, a transept of three aisles, and an apse with seven chapels. It has three facades dedicated to the birth, passion and glory of Jesus, and when completed (note: that’s a key point) it will have eighteen towers: four at each side making a total of twelve for the apostles, four on the transept invoking the evangelists and one on the apse dedicated to the Virgin, plus the central tower in honor of Jesus, which will reach 170 meters (560 ft) in height.

Stamps on my Passport
A great demonstration of Gaudi’s style.

Travel Tips: While the Cathedral is jammed packed, this is truly the “don’t miss/must see” attraction in Barcelona. And I say that for the spiritual and non-spiritual alike. A few mandatories:

  • Purchase a ticket ahead of time online. The lines are HUGE, wrapping around the cathedral, for those who did not get tickets in advance.
  • Make sure your ticket includes the Basilica and and Tower. There are a two towers, each has perceived pros and cons. I won’t bias you.
  • Be on time; the admissions folks are ultra strict about prompt entrance and you don’t want to miss your window of opportunity, especially if you are visiting one of the Towers. BTW, this also means don’t show up too early. We arrived 15 minutes ahead of time and were told to exit the line and enter then.
  • Plan to spend a few hours, either exploring, taking photographs, participating in a tour or simply just sitting quietly.

When Barcelona’s residents complained that construction was taking too long, Gaudí is said to have quipped: “My client is not in a hurry.” He had a reputation for not suffering fools. When he died in 1926, the basilica was only about 20 percent complete. After Gaudí’s death, work continued until interrupted by the Spanish Civil War in 1936. Parts of the unfinished basilica and Gaudí’s models and workshop were destroyed and the present design a reconstructed version of his vision.

Construction is now funded by visitors and the final Cathedral is projected to be complete around 2026, the centennial of Gaudí’s death. However, we noticed that other information states 2028. For anyone who has personally experienced the charms of Spain, the humor is not lost. But, I’m guessing that if it’s not complete, they’ll make it look finished in 2026.

Inside the Sagrada Family. A feast for your eyes.
Inside the Sagrada Family. A feast for your eyes.

While writing this, I saw Paul Steel’s post and thought he had some really beautiful photos. Interestingly, i struggled with the same question (to comment or not on the ongoing construction of Sagrada Família and Spain’s overall work ethic.) Ultimately, I think we both agreed, like any country, the stereotype is personified. The people we met in Spain were friendly, hard working. I wouldn’t want to come off as disrespectful. And I am careful not to diminish new friendships by holding on to an old stereotype. I mean, I would hate for people to judge me based on what they read about Washington DC.

 

 

Museu Picasso

The Picasso Museum in Barcelona has got to be one of the most heavily trafficked attractions in Catalonia. The museum itself is located in the Old Town area, spanning a series of adjoining rooms. These rooms run across several houses described as “medieval palaces.” They didn’t strike me as palaces, but I supposed by European standards at the time these were quite large. I’d say they were mansions. But it’s what these mansions contain that makes the place a constant thrum.

When you visit this museum, don’t expect to see many works from Picasso’s blue or rose periods. But I promise, you will not be disappointed. There are only a few of those on display. You also won’t see what many consider his greatest single work, Guernica.

Picasso's Guernica (image compliments of Wikipedia)
Picasso’s Guernica (image courtesy of Wikipedia)

Instead, this museum spans his lifetime of work, showing the progression of his artistry. Think of it as a tasting menu that begins in a master chef’s teens, and ends with their signature dish. Pieces were donated by Picasso’s friend, Jaime Sabartes. After Sabartes passed away, Picasso himself donated more paintings including an abundance of his early works. His family has since donated other works.

This is where even the most non-art-inclined person (that would be me) can appreciate his talent. As you walk through the rooms from front to back, you’ll see sketches and paintings beginning in his teenage years and progressing to another of his greatest works. But seeing his early work is impactful because by the age of 15 his talent is clear.

An early sketch of Picasso's "Science and Charity," before he painted the canvas (image courtesy of http://fr.wahooart.com)
Picasso’s “Science and Charity,” before he completed the the canvas, shows his considerable talent at 15 (image courtesy of http://fr.wahooart.com).

Outside of this collection of paintings, and in many ways most impressive, the museum also includes all 44 pieces of Las Meninas, inspired by the Velázquez masterpiece of the same name. What I loved about these paintings (and they are the most famous on display at the museum) is that it shows all the work, and planning, and consideration that is involved in a painting. What goes where, how each piece is portrayed in position, mood and color is all broken out…it’s like seeing each rewrite of Hamlet’s soliloquy.

Picasso's Las Meninas, a highlight of the museum.
Picasso’s Las Meninas, a highlight of the museum.

As I said, this is the most popular room, and it’s what is basically the end of the exhibit. By then, I was pretty overwhelmed, and the room was crowded. In fact, the rooms that house the study of Las Meninas, and the piece itself, are elbow to elbow with people. For background on Velázquez and his connection to these Picasso works, refer to my previous post on The Prado.

For comparison, Velazquez own Las Meninas.
For comparison, Las Meninas by Velazquez.
 
Travel Tip: If you are planning to visit the Picasso Museum, a few suggestions. Buy tickets ahead of time—as I have mentioned before, many of these museums have tickets online. The line for people without ticket is incredibly long and you will spend a  nice chunk of your morning or afternoon snaking your way to the ticket counter. You can roll the dice and try going at noon for a slightly shorter line, but I don’t recommend it. I do encourage a visit during traditional siesta hours, as it is comparatively less crowded.
 
Photographs are not permitted in the museum, however it is not strictly enforced. What will get you in trouble quicker than a New York minute is using flash. It’s frowned upon by tourist and guide alike, but using a smart phone to click a photo is possible. I suggest respecting the guidelines (which I did) and purchasing postcards in the gift shop.
 
I would also strongly recommend purchasing the audio tour. It’s informative and a great way to occupy time hearing about the works while waiting your turn to get in front of the paintings. In fact, across Spain, when you’re at these museums the audio tour makes your visit a lot more enjoyable. It’s worth it, and we were never disappointed by a single audio tour.

 

Because Picasso left Barcelona for Paris in his early twenties, we non-art enthusiasts may forget his Spanish heritage and think a museum like this is out of place Barcelona. He did in fact return to the city several times. However, after the Civil War his opposition to Franco kept him in France, where he continued to paint and design for the Barcelona College of Architects. Franco was later persuaded to allow the city to open this museum.

Outtakes from the MEAM

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One post just wasn’t enough to capture how amazing MEAM is. We took about 400 photographs while visiting and it seemed appropriate to share a small selection of them.  I’m intentionally not publishing all of our photos, otherwise you wouldn’t need to go visit this amazing museum yourself. All photos property of MEAM and printed/posted with permission.